I’ve had it many times before. Serving it is a Christmas
tradition on my wife’s side of the family, always accompanied with an
explanation of the name: It’s the chili traditionally served at funerals.
Dead Man’s Chili is seriously good eating. It’s a red
chili, made with shredded beef, the chilis used in ristras (the hanging
garlands of red chilis sometimes used as wall decorations at Mexican
restaurants), and undoubtedly a number of other things I don’t know that contribute
to making it delicious. Like all good chilis, it takes a long time to make, and
(aside from cooking the meat) begins by making a roux – yes, like gumbo. If
you’re thinking chili with beans in it, stop right now. You put this on mashed
potatos, or really just about anything, as if it’s a sauce or gravy.
What you find by Googling “Dead Man’s Chili” is not the
Dead Man’s I know, since those all seem to include jalapenos, and I don’t
recall any of those. The one I know is mild, but very flavorful; Googled
versions referring to it being hot enough to raise the dead have nothing to do
with it.
The technique for making Dead Man’s is a family tradition.
My Uncle-in-law (about my age, as is his wife, who went to school with my wife …
think about it) learned to make it by hanging around in the kitchen while my great
grandmother-in-law made it. After hanging around for several years, he was
finally allowed to help, and after a long time was eventually shown how to make
it. I wouldn’t bother asking him for the recipe, since I know it includes quantities
specified like “Make sure you add enough salt. But don't add too
much!”
The method for making it is, however, spread rather
widely around that side of the family. It must be since, again traditionally, a
collection of people all made it independently for the funeral reception, and all
their handiwork was served just mixed together. As far as I could tell, nothing
of the taste was lost or altered in the mixing.
The occasion for serving it was the funeral of Uncle Ben.
That’s how he was known by everybody, just "Uncle Ben." Officially he was Benito Martinez, but I
only found that out at the funeral. The family members I normally interact with
used to think he was “Benjamin.” He was my great-grand-uncle-in-law on my wife’s
side.
Uncle Ben passed away at the age of 104. Longevity is a
feature of that side of the family; many of them make it to 90 or more. (Hope
my kids inherited that.) Uncle Ben was the last of his generation, though.
I really didn’t know him. I was introduced at a couple of
family gatherings over the years as a new relation, but that’s all. I do know,
since it was hard to miss, that his trademark was a monster bushy white Zapata-style
moustache and a white cowboy hat. He wore that hat constantly, and came by it honestly:
He had worked as a cowboy back in the 1920s, on ranches his father owned in
southern Colorado. According to an article in the now-defunct Rocky Mountain
News published when he turned 99, somewhere there’s a picture of him, in his
younger days, on a rearing white horse. Asked the horse’s name, he said it was
just a white horse. “Horses don’t have names; names are for people.” He also
drank a shot of whisky every day “to keep the juices flowing.” At the funeral,
one of his grandchildren spoke of him taking out his teeth and chasing the kids
around the house with them. All this adds up to his being a great character
right up to the end.
The picture was scanned from an old
copy of the Rocky Mountain News article I mentioned. Bad picture.You can barely see his moustache.
It was sad to see him in his casket with his moustache
shaved off. I don’t know when that was done, or why; we speculated that it was
to allow use of some medical breathing thing.
He did have his hat with him during the service, though, in
his casket.
However, at his gravesite, the casket was opened and his
sister took his hat. I don’t know how I feel about that. On the one hand, clearly
she can remember him by it, and what use is it to him now? On the other hand,
well, it was his trademark, always with him. I can’t see him going through the
pearly games, or entering the light, or whatever, without his hat on.
Presumably, though, if such things are needed he’ll be provided with, say,
pants; so why not a hat, too? I really didn’t have a close enough relationship
with him to justify an opinion, but heck – he lost his moustache and his hat too? My grandfather-in-law did,
though, whisper to me at the graveside that they should have left his hat with
him.
Farewell, Uncle Ben. We’re eating Dead Man’s in your
memory, and after that drinking coffee with condensed milk, not cream (another tradition).
And I’ll knock back a shot to keep the juices flowing.